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December 21, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 16: Zoo and Home

November 23, 2019

We thought yesterday was a long day. Today is literally a long day, as we will be flying east across the International Date line. But first, let’s go to the zoo!

After checking out of the Fairmont and leaving our bags with the Bell Desk, we made our way to the Singapore Zoo. This involved a longish subway ride, followed by about a 20-minute bus ride. As we approached the zoo, there was quite a bit of construction; apparently the zoo is expanding.

Greeting monkey

We bought the normal zoo ticket with a supplement to ride the tram to get an overview. As we entered, it seemed quite crowded, and Jim said to Kenna, “With all these people, the animals are all going to hide.” Just as he said that, a monkey appeared about two feet to his left. Obviously the animals here are used to people.

The Singapore Zoo has an excellent collection of animal species, especially (as you might expect) tropical animals that are comfortable in Singapore’s warm, humid, and consistent climate. They had quite a number of animals that I hadn’t encountered elsewhere. We particularly enjoyed watching the lemurs jump from branch to branch over our heads; they are so energetic!

A meerkat in its “manor”

After considerable walking around the zoo (in addition to the tram ride), it was time to make our way back to the hotel to get our bags and on to the airport. We were a bit too conservative on the time and arrived before the United ticket counter opened, so we found a restaurant serving local food for a last taste of Singaporean cuisine.

The return trip to San Francisco is considerably shorter in time than the nonstop from San Francisco to Singapore, owing to the revailing winds on the route. Still, we had requested an upgrade to Business Class with a combination of frequent flight miles and some additional cash, in the hopes that we could try out that experience. As it happened, we didn’t have quite the frequent flight status to get upgraded, and did the flight in Economy Plus. At least we get the miles and cash we had offered for the upgrade back. It was a long flight, but tolerable.

It is a little strange getting back to a place where one needs to wear a jacket during the colder months. But it is, as always, good to be home.

This article is the final installment in a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 21, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 15: Gardens

November 22, 2019

Gaylang Serai Market

Today was a long day for both of us. Kenna, especially, did a lot of walking. Jim was in meetings wrapping up his work at the conference. Kenna decided to start off the day by venturing farther out toward the east coast to the Joo Chiat or Katong neighborhood. The guidebook showed that there was a large market, a couple of temples, and some colorful Peranakan terrace houses there. It was also interesting because the MRT went above ground away from the center of the city. It was a more residential part of town with many high-rise apartment buildings. Kenna started at the Geylang Serai Market, a wet market and hawker centre as well as stalls to buy just about anything else.

After returning to the hotel for some lunch, Kenna decided to take a walk around Fort Canning Park. She had until now missed this large park in the center of the city. Some of the grounds were blocked off in preparation for a concert that evening but there were exhibitions going on in celebration of Singapore’s bicentennial, the anniversary of Sir Stamford Raffles’ arrival in Singapore. One multimedia presentation with a timeline and pictures documenting the history of the land.

Gardens by the Bay

Once Jim got out of his meetings, we made our way to the Gardens by the Bay, adjacent to the Marina Bay Sands hotel. It was starting to get dark, so we had limited time to explore. There are two climate-controlled domes, the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest, which we did not explore , but we had plenty to see in the outdoor (and free) areas of the Gardens.

One of the iconic sights in the Gardens is a number of very tall artificial “trees”. These are lit at night, and soon after it got dark, a short light show to music was put on. It was opera night this evening. The lighting and the sound system were both excellent. We understand this is put on twice every evening; quite an undertaking but not to be missed.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 21, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 14: Old and New

November 21, 2019

Exterior of Baba House

Unable to go to the Peranakan Museum, Kenna went in search of another Peranakan experience. This is the heritage of her friend Liz, who is from Singapore, so she was a little more curious about the culture. She found and booked a tour of the Baba House for this morning. The house was the ancestral home of a Peranakan Chinese family known as the Wee family. It was built in 1895 and acquired by the National University of Singapore in 2006. Most of the first and second floors of the house have been restored. A large proportion of the furniture, pictures, and other possessions are original to the home. The third floor is a small a museum of more objects and documents from around the turn of the 20th century. They have a lot of first-hand stories of the family history.

SkyPark infinity pool

After the tour Kenna went back to the hotel to meet up with Jim who had the afternoon off, so we could do some sightseeing together. We headed off to Marina Bay, walked through the shopping mall and had lunch, and then went to see the Skypark atop the 57th floor of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. The S$26/person admission fee got us access to an observation deck at one end of the Skypark, but much of the Skypark remained off-limits to us and reserved for hotel guests, which is probably reasonable.

What a view from the top! We had a nearly panoramic view of the city and the harbor, which was full of container ships. From one end of the deck, we could also peek at the infinity pool being used by guests. Nearly all of them seemed to be taking selfies!

Following our visit we returned to our hotel to rest our legs and feet, and then returned to the Paranakan theme for dinner at the House of Peranakan restaurant a couple of blocks from the hotel. We shared a couple of traditional Singapore dishes, which was a change from the wide variety of non-Singapore food we had been eating.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 18, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 13: Museum and Gallery

November 20, 2019

Jim was off to more meetings this morning. Kenna had talk to with her companion from yesterday about possibly visiting a museum together, but a family emergency caused Wendy and her husband to suddenly fly back home today. On her own again and with rain having started last evening, Kenna decided that going to a museum was still a good idea. She had wanted to see the Peranakan Museum, but it was closed for renovation. She chose instead to start with the National Museum of Singapore.

This museum was originally the Raffles Library and Museum and is still housed in the original building from the mid-1800’s. They have recently added on a modern new space, only slightly modifying the old building to connect the two and preserve the historic structure. Kenna got there in time to join a guided tour in English. The historical exhibits are well organized and take the visitor through Singapore’s history, from the original settlers to the present day. There were also side exhibitions including one that is multimedia and another about growing up in Singapore in the 1950’s and 1960’s. It was interesting for Kenna to compare the items in that exhibit to her experience in the United States. When she went to leave the museum, the rain was pouring down but it soon let up enough for her to quickly make it back to the shopping area for lunch before setting out again.

This time she went over to the National Gallery Singapore. This is also in an historic building, actually two that are now combined with a new roof and bridges in between. There was an interesting exhibit about these buildings, which were the former city hall and supreme court, and how they have been transformed over the years including some of the renovations they had to do to stabilize them and make them one. Kenna enjoys art museums and this one was no exception. She was especially moved by a special exhibit of watercolors by the artist Lim Cheng Hoe. He was largely self-taught and painted mostly landscapes of Singapore from the 1930s to 1970s. Overall, it was a good day of learning about the history of Singapore and getting a better understanding of its diverse peoples.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 17, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 12: Ethnic Singapore

November 19, 2019

Tekka Centre Wet Market

Yesterday, Kenna and another spouse of someone attending the IETF meeting (or “companion” as we are called by IETF) made plans to do some sightseeing together. Wendy was still somewhat jetlagged so we decided to meet later, giving Kenna time to take care of a little more laundry she had to do. Most of our clothes could go to a full-service laundry but there were a few things that she wanted to hang to dry. She set out early for a self-service laundry she found a short subway ride away in the Chinatown district. After getting the load started there was time to do a little exploring. Unfortunately, the nearby wet (food) market was closed for a periodic cleaning. However, the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, a large five-story temple, was interesting and had lots of statues, exhibits and places for people to worship. On the way back to the subway station, she was able to check out some of the shops that were now open.

Abdul Gafoor Mosque

Kenna and Wendy arranged to meet at Starbucks and from there they decided to walk to Little India. They used a walking tour they found in a guidebook and some ideas of other sights they had heard about to plan where to go. They were immediately impressed by how different this neighborhood was from other parts of Singapore. The Tan House was one of the first stops. It is not named for its color because it is actually very colorful. It is name for the family who owned it. After that they wandered around the Tekka Centre Wet Market which also has a large area upstairs with clothing and textiles. They then visited the Abdul Gafoor Mosque. They took off their shoes and wore appropriate covering to go in but didn’t stay long as there were many people having prayers. Later when they were outside again a pleasant gentleman greeted them and was helpful in explaining the mosque and answering any questions. They walked on to the Mustafa Centre, a multi-level superstore full of any kind of item you could think of, mostly imports from the subcontinent. They stopped at a nice Indian place for a delicious lunch. Then, as it was getting to be late afternoon, they moved on at a faster pace through the Kampong Glam district, a mostly Arab neighborhood, before returning to the hotel to freshen up for their evening activities.

ArtScience Museum light exhibit

After Jim was finished with his meetings, he and Kenna went to the IETF Social Event, held at the ArtScience Museum, an iconic flower-shaped building in Marina Bay. When we first arrived, it seemed the only thing to do was eat (although the food was quite good) and talk with colleagues (which is always worthwhile) but soon we discovered the doorway into the exhibit area. There were a number of rooms with different interactive art exhibits, most of which were very playful and fun. When we finished, we crossed over the Helix Bridge and back to our hotel.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 16, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 11: More Singapore orientation

November 18, 2019

While Jim spent most of the day in meetings, Kenna ventured out again to do some more sightseeing. Since she still had a few more hours left on her 24-hours hop-on/hop-off bus pass, she completed a route she started the previous day and then went on to take one more tour. The narration along the way was interesting, although sometimes repetitive when the routes overlapped. The background music got really old. With the heat and humidity in Singapore, sitting on the shaded upper deck of the bus was a good way to get to around town to preview sights.

She was just finishing the last route when she got a text that the laundry was ready to be picked up. The place was on her way to the hotel, so she picked it up and headed back. She found some lunch at another restaurant in the basement of the shopping mall before finding a place to sit in the conference area to watch people, get caught up on some correspondence, and plan how to spend her time for the next few days. After being on the road and running around for more than ten days, it was nice to slow down for a while. She still has a lot of time yet to see more of Singapore.

CHIJMES Hall

When Jim was done with his meetings, we didn’t feel like venturing out too far for dinner. Fortunately, there’s an excellent “dining complex” (better than a food court!), CHIJMES, across the street from the hotel. CHIJMES (an abbreviation for Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus Middle Education School and pronounced “chimes”) is a former convent much of which has been converted into a collection of upscale restaurants. We had tapas at “The Winery” which, along with a great view of the chapel, was just what we needed.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 15, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 10: IETF Begins

November 17, 2019

Before Jim’s meetings began today, we located a nearby laundry where we were able to refresh our clothes of the past week. It wasn’t exactly cheap, but definitely less expensive than the hotel.

Botanic Garden

Jim headed off to meetings for the afternoon while Kenna began taking tours on the hop-on hop-off bus around the city. These buses have multiple routes in Singapore because there are a lot of different areas to cover. She started with a route that took her through some of the ethnic districts near the center of the city and then took a route that went to toward the Botanic Garden where she got off to look around. The gardens were lush and very calming, although busy on a Sunday afternoon. She found a place to get some satay for lunch and then walked around (getting lost for a while) before catching the bus to get back toward the hotel.

In the evening, we joined up to go to the IETF opening reception. This is always enjoyable for Jim as he gets to see many old friends. Kenna also connected with a few people she has met before as well as meeting some new people there.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 15, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 9: Code Sprint

November 16, 2019

Today is a preliminary day to the 106th Internet Engineering Task Force (IETF) meeting which will occupy the coming week for Jim, although Kenna will get to do some sightseeing while Jim is in meetings.

Today Jim is participating in the “code sprint”, where a small group of IETF participants work to improve the online tools that support the organization. Jim’s plan is to work for about half the day, and then join Kenna for a little sightseeing after that. Fortunately, Jim was able to find a couple of small tasks to complete that made that possible.

Helix Bridge and Marina Bay Sands

While Jim was “sprinting”, Kenna tried to figure out how to get started exploring Singapore. She found a walking route for visiting sights around the Marina Bay area, and seeing that it was close by, decided to start there. She walked toward the Marina Bay Sands, the iconic hotel that looks like three towers with a surfboard on top. After crossing the Helix Bridge she found a passage through a higher level of the hotel that led to an area that overlooked the Gardens by the Bay. She then continued around the bay and back to the hotel as she was feeling the heat and humidity. It was a relief to get into the shopping mall adjacent to the hotel. She explored a little before finding a place to get a late lunch.

When Jim was finished, we had a little time to go over to the Orchard Road shopping area. The street was very busy with shoppers and sightseers. Everything was decked out for Christmas even though it was only the middle of November. Apparently the decorations here go up as early as the beginning of October and stay up through January.

Emerald Hill homes

On the recommendation of our friend Liz, we took a short detour off Orchard road to Emerald Hill. Here we saw a number of well-preserved, very elegant “shop” houses in a style representative of Singapore in years past.

We got back in time to head off to dinner at a German-style restaurant with many of the members of the IETF Nominating Committee that Jim will be spending a lot of time with in the coming week.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 13, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 8: Tokyo to Singapore

November 15, 2019

Our flight to Singapore today is from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, and fortunately it’s very convenient to there from our hotel. We were able to get up at a reasonable hour to catch the subway to the airport for our 10:55 am flight. Even though we did some advance work to locate escalators and elevators, we did have to lug our bags down a couple of flights to the platform.

Since we needed to leave for the airport at about 8:30 am, it was rush hour, and for the first time we had the opportunity to experience a truly crowded Tokyo subway train. “Standing room only” doesn’t begin to describe it: we and our baggage were tightly packed into the subway car, but after a few stops we got to the airport and it was over.

Check-in and immigration formalities were uneventful, and we were off for our 7-hour flight to Singapore. This was my first flight on ANA, and the service was excellent, with (of course) a Japanese touch. As with many airlines that have customized flight safety videos, they had an entertaining Japan-themed safety video, as well as a Flight Safety Video – Behind the Scenes that they showed at the end of the flight. We enjoyed both greatly.

When we arrived in Singapore, we quickly made it to the subway (MRT) station. Since we are staying a little over a week, we opted to get refillable MRT cards rather than to buy a ticket each time. This cost a few dollars for each card, but on my previous visit I found it to be worthwhile in terms of time and hassle avoided. We headed for our hotel, the Fairmont Singapore, which is right at the City Hall MRT station.

We checked in and got to our room, and had not yet been out of doors while in Singapore (the closest being a very quick connection at the Tanah Merah MRT station, so we did get to feel the humidity a little bit). Our room, especially compared with the rooms in Japan, is spacious and comfortable. Somewhat tired from travel, we decided not to venture out for dinner this evening, so we had a nice if slightly pricey dinner of tapas at the Fairmont lobby bar before retiring.

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.

December 12, 2019 / Jim Fenton

Japan/Singapore Day 7: Tokyo Commerce and Government

November 14, 2019

Today is our last full day in Tokyo. We had heard so much about the Toyosu wholesale fish market in Tokyo that we started the day there. We didn’t make it for the morning tuna auction (6:30 AM) but just took a self-guided tour of the facilities. There are three main areas that have observation galleries open to the public.

We first went to the “wholesale intermediate fish market” where smaller fish customers (restaurants, perhaps) do business. There wasn’t a great deal to see there, but there was a considerable market with food products, utensils, and some souvenirs. I found a great T-shirt there. Lots of tourists of course, but I was surprised to see a relatively small proportion of westerners.

The second section was the wholesale market, where the daily tuna auction takes place. From the observation galleries, we saw large open areas, freshly hosed-down, where apparently the fish auction had taken place earlier in the day.

A small portion of the produce market

The third section, the produce market, was also enormous. One of the fascinations there was an automated refrigerated storage facility where palettes of boxed produce were stored and retrieved entirely by a robotic conveyor system.

Next we took the subway downtown to the Tokyo Stock Exchange. Unlike the New York Stock Exchange, which (since 9/11) you can’t even get close to, JPX (as it’s referred to) has all sorts of things for visitors to see: an exhibit on the history of the exchange (including during the World War 2 period), a computerized “trading game” to teach people what the exchange does, and visitor galleries that surround the trading floor. The trading floor, of course, now consists of a few desks surrounded by multiple displays; the actual trading is done by computer now (probably actually in a secure data center some place).

Tokyo Stock Exchange (JPX)

After a light (and late) lunch at a nearby cafe, we took the subway to Shinjuku. Shinjuku is the seat of the Tokyo city government, and the city hall has observation platforms at the 45th floor for visitors. Best of all, they’re free! After a short wait, we took the elevator to the “observatory” and had a wonderful panoramic view of Tokyo at sunset. As the sun set next to Mount Fuji, we had a wonderful silhouette view of it. It was a very fitting end to our visit to Tokyo.

Mt. Fuji sunset

After sunset, we walked into the commercial district of Shinjuku. It was a very vibrant business district, with many people moving in all directions. We visited a department store looking for a yukata (cotton robe) for Kenna, but unfortunately they’re considered summer wear and not available in November.

Through a friend, we heard of a notable hole-in-the-wall udon noodle restaurant, Udon Shin, in Shinjuku, so we found it (down a narrow side street) largely by the line waiting to get in. We waited through the line while reviewing the menu and ordering, and were eventually invited in. It was indeed small — it seated 12 people or so — and it had what was easily the most delicious, flavorful udon I have ever had. Mine also came with a tempura soft-boiled egg, which was perfectly done. On top of all that, it was a relatively inexpensive dinner.

We then returned to the hotel to repack for tomorrow’s departure for Singapore. Today was a fine conclusion to our visit to Tokyo.

Total walking today: 9.2 miles, 28 floors climbed

This article is part of a series about our recent travels to Japan and Singapore. To see the introductory article in the series, click here.